Thursday, March 10, 2016

The Day My Husband Baked a Cake


I refuse to plan my birthday.

Thus, it is a yearly rite of comedic mishaps which ends up being my birthday celebration. Some years are filled with delightful surprises, while others involve a lot of hand-wringing and hysterical stories of what was meant to be that was not. Both are exactly what I love about leaving this one day of decision making to my husband.

Late February, as we were jaunting about Bantayan in the back of a Jeepney, Zach asked what I wanted for my birthday. I smiled and said, "I want you to bake me a birthday cake."

I say this every year.

He never does it.

Granted, the years in China have given him a legitimate excuse with the lack of a suitable oven. Even my ventures with baking a cake in a toaster oven have been stressful and a crap shoot as to what the end product would be. However, this year we upgraded thanks to a departing expat, so I coyly smiled and remarked that he could be adventuresome this year.

Two days before my birthday, Zach remarked that he would accept my challenge and make the boxed cake mix we had in the kitchen. I looked at him quizzically.

"What boxed mix?" I asked.

"You know, the funfetti one we have in the tub under the counter."

"Zach, we have not had a boxed cake mix for over a year."

Stunned, he slumped back into the chair and exclaimed, "How am I suppose to make a cake now?!"

"From scratch."

"How does one even begin that process?" he asked.

I laughed and found a recipe.

I encouraged.

I took pity and said I would even make the icing.

On my birthday, he faced his fear.

He was nervous. He was very methodical. He mildly panicked only one time. He even put a tealight on top (because birthday candles are elusive in this country.)

It was an amazing cake. Zach reveled in his success, our friends applauded his efforts, and I absolutely loved that my husband baked me a birthday cake. 

Tuesday, March 8, 2016

Since We Have Been Back

One day I will realize that no matter how much time we give ourselves before a semester, it will never be enough. I have grand schemes and dreams of what I will accomplish before that first day of school only to be thwarted. One or two things may be accomplished, but more times than not, my to-do list sits on the desk, taunting me. What is so funny about this lament is that during this time, I am actually busy...just not doing what I think I need to do. 

Since blogging is on that (never-checked-off) to do list, I find that my beginning of the semester posts always seem to be a compilation. This year is no different. Here is a glimpse into what we have been doing since we have been back.  


HAPPY BIRTHDAY, ALICE!

Two days after our return, we spent the evening with friends celebrating Alice's one year birthday. Dongbei food, laughter, reunions, and a really good cake made for a great evening. 


OPERATION DE-MOLD

De-molding is a tedious task. It tends to have a whack-a-mole feel - for every spot cleaned ten more are found. It took two days for the kitchen alone. 



FIVE YEARS

The night we set foot on Chinese soil was emotional. We had left family, a loving community, and comfort behind. We knew we wanted something new, but just did not know what it would look like or how we would handle such a change. We said we would take it one year at a time, though agreed that we would not go into it with a definite end date. At the end of February, we marked our five year anniversary in this adopted motherland.

It has been an amazing journey. When I reflect on what these five years have held for us, it is bewildering, humbling, and empowering. I frequently say that China is not for the faint of heart. While I am quite sure I am not the strongest of hearts, I think my naivety and optimism helps in forging a life in this wild land. Plus, I have the best partner-in-crime. There are many moments we face each other and say, "We are in this together."

China has taught me a lot. It has forced me to widen my world view. It has made me laugh and cry, sometimes simultaneously. I learned that friendships do not end just because of distance. I am more patient. I am a better observer. I am more empathetic. I am more grateful. Perhaps one day this semester I will sit down and pen in more depth what this country has done and become for me to commemorate the five year mark. Until that day, though, we celebrate that we actually made it.

I love our life.


WUCHUAN LANTERN FESTIVAL

A message at 11:30pm the previous night alerted us to the festivities happening at a nearby city. A couple of our students let us know that for the first time in five years the city would host events for Lantern Festival, including a favorite of ours - piaose (dressed up children). We agreed it would be an adventure and set off early the following morning.

One of the students told us that there were two Wuchuan buses - a fast and slow one. Armed with the correct Chinese words (character and pinyin) to discern which was which, we boarded the first bus. I asked the driver and ayi if it was the fast bus that went over the bridge. They agreed, confirmed we were on the fast bus, and off we went.

We were on the slow bus.

The yes/no question in China is futile when in regards to transportation, as this scenario has happened more than once. I think in the Chinese mindset is, "You want to get to Wuchuan? I can get you to Wuchuan. Do not worry about details such as fast or slow, I will get you where you want to go."

We started our journey at 9:15am, we arrived at our destination at 11am. Towards the end, we thought we would never arrive, miss the parade, and only have a crazy story to tell for our efforts. Granted, it was a scenic journey and we saw a lot of celebrations along the way, but travel angst was definitely setting in when the ayi waved her hand and yelled at us to get off.

Our drop off point was towards the end of the parade route, which allowed for us to stretch our legs, find the local KFC for a bathroom pit stop, and find a spot along the route. Our presence was definitely a novelty among the frivolity. Sadly, the Wuchuan version of foreigner spotting was rather rude. Phones shoved in our faces, pushing and shoving to stand beside us, standing in our path as we walked so they could get a look, or just the all-out gawking that borderlines creepiness. Granted a lot of rudeness was abounding beyond our sphere, so it was irritating to be part of the rude and surrounded by the rude. The spot we chose to stand had been at the front, but by the time the parade came, we were four or five behind. No matter how many times we told people not to get in front of us, they would just shove the Chinese person next to us and circumvent our glares and arm length.

Once the parade ended, the crowd dispersed and we wandered around looking for the other points of interest such as the locals temples and big meals. Nothing. Once the parade ended, the town shut down. We could not even find something to eat. We did step into a small shrine, to be welcomed by an old lady who gifted us with an orange. I loved her smile.

Despondent at not finding anything besides shuttered shops and gawking locals, we grabbed some bread at the local supermarket and found the bus depot. I did not even try to ask if it was the fast or slow, but settled in for the meandering journey back to Xiashan.

Forty minutes later, we were at our destination. Apparently, we had the fast bus and it was definitely faster.

Our experience with the Wuchuan festival falls into the we-did-it category. I felt that the jovial excitement that has been such a part of previous experiences was lacking. After a five year absence, I thought it would be grand and over-the-top, complete with bystanders eager to experience a part of their culture that had been missing. It wasn't. Yes, there was a lot of people, but I got the feeling it was something that had to be done alongside the day's chores.

Zach's disappointment was that none of the students that had invited us, met up with us. We have learned that though students say, "Come to my hometown and I will show you around," most of the time it is an empty gesture. Zach thought with the enthusiasm these two girls had asked us to come, they would have connected with us. We agreed that their hospitality seemed to mirror the attitude of the town and the celebration in general - we will do what needs to be done, then go about our business.


BAIXINGCUN LANTERN FESTIVAL

Two days after our expedition to Wuchuan, we had the completely opposite festival experience in Baixingcun. This village knows how to party and the atmosphere is thrilling. Laughter abounds. Squeals of delight from children are frequently heard. The locals are welcoming. The roads are heaped with red firework paper carnage even before the official start. There is something to see around every corner.

This was our third year to participate, yet it continues to be a different experience each time. This year, we found the staging area as well as the beginning of the parade route. It was so much fun to interact with the parade participants as they waited and capture stunning pictures at the start which was a temple. We learned with this location, that each lion and dragon will dance/kowtow its way in and out of the temple before they begin their parade journey. Each did it differently, some with more enthusiasm than others. After the parade passed, we were interviewed and videoed by a crew which asked nicely and even sent us the video a few days later. They did a great job and I think it is one of the best videos that we have been featured in to date.

After walking around and chasing the parade for a time, we met with friends at Derek's new apartment which is located in the village. It was a great reunion as many of us had traveled, and Ling cooked lunch for the crew. From his balcony, we continued to watch the festivities as the village sat down together for lunch along the road and in front of the temples.


SNACK STREET 2.0

Post typhoon, our tin-and-twine food area in front of the main gate was demolished. It came back with a vengeance, only to be demolished again over the holiday. Chinese logic at its finest.

The word on the street is that it is an endeavor to make it more sanitary. I am not sure how infilling the polluted stream that ran behind, pouring concrete over the top, and then setting up a food stall on top constitutes as more sanitary, but we are going with it for now.

The other question is how taking a nearly-open air market that had ventilation problems before and creating a huge arching tin roof over everything is going to make the ventilation better. Tin-and-twine on top of tin-and-twine....we are still contemplating this one.

All critical thinking aside, it has been a fascinating work in progress. Sand, concrete, and bricks can build anything in this country. Slowly, shops are returning and opening up for business. It has become a scavenger hunt to see where our favorite ones have relocated to in the new layout.

It is new. It is fun. It is different. We will just embrace the change...until the next typhoon and the cleanup will include a double batch of tin-and-twine.


GUEST CHEFS

On a Friday evening, our hutong was invaded by zealous chefs wanting to share their local foods with us. I always tell students that they are free to use my kitchen to cook as long as they make vegetarian food. We have had a handful take me up on the offer; this was one of the most ecstatic crews. However, in the course of the evening, we learned that most of them had actually never cooked the food themselves. Theory vs. practice. Throughout the evening, I heard a lot of, "I hope this works."

Timing was off so a lot of reheating took place, but by the end we enjoyed dumplings, soup, sweet bread, and noodles. We congratulated them on a well done meal, but gave even more accolades for two feats that had never been done in my kitchen - the most people in there at the same time and using every single dish to be found in the kitchen.


DEADLY COMBINATION

I spent an afternoon meandering the fabric market with Tanya and Alice. Transformation has taken place and it was the cleanest I had ever seen it. Piles were not so high and discovery of good pieces of fabric was in minutes rather than hours. At the far side of the fabric market, we discovered a flower market. Once upon a time in the earlier days of our time here, there had been one but had been razed for a new road. The road has finally been completed and life is coming back.

Fabric and flowers - a deadly combination.

I was already walking away with eleven yards of fabric, so two new plants and a hanging basket were a bonus to the day. I picked up a red petunia. I saw it, it reminded me of my mom, and there are just days when such a reminder needs to go home with me. (This is along the same vein, that there are days I just wander the hardware stores because I miss my dad.) My other purchase was a plant I have seen often around SE Asia, really like, but had not seen it here. Nepenthes, also known as Monkey's cup, is a very quirky plant which immediately endears me to it, but it also eats mosquitoes. When a fellow teacher asked about it and I replied that its primary function was to chomp on buzzing nuisances, he quickly exclaimed, "Get me fifteen of them!" We are still unsure as to its efficiency, but it makes me happy to see it hanging, alongside my petunia, outside my window.  

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Smokescreens of China

Booms and bangs are the soundtrack of life around this country. The abundant use of firecrackers is a must for any activity - from waking the ancestors, to signaling the start of a dinner, to the opening of a business, and especially holiday fanfare. We jokingly remark that we would never know if China was under attack because it sounds like perpetual warfare. There have even been a few evenings when silence has reigned and I have wondered if something is wrong.

Even if we did not hear them, we would be fully aware of the pyrotechnic shenanigans by the fog that wallows in every earthly crevice during this holiday season. Fog is not a natural substance here. The government is taking steps to ban the use of firecrackers and fireworks because of its environmental impact. While I cannot fault them for their efforts, I do find it funny that they go after their cultural heritage as the cause of their pollution problems rather than the thousands of factories who far outpace a string of firecrackers. Nonetheless, the locals have not taken heed of such decrees and the pyromaniacs stand firm ensuring the surrounding areas know that something is going on.

In the spirit of the holiday season and my affection for our local festivities, I present my Smokescreens of China gallery.


These impromptu roadside hawkers are the welcoming committee to any village celebration. I snapped this photo in front of our campus when the smoke residue was in its infancy.


Main gate entrance into a village.


The parade-will-soon-begin firecracker set.


I think the smoke helps the guys forget they have spears through their cheeks. It cannot hurt if one cannot see it, right?


There are official firecracker lighters. This one took his post seriously, was prepared for any time of weather, and did his best not to hit the lions with the open flame as they entered the temple. Spectators were a different story.






Light 'em up, the parade has passed!


Let us build a pavilion while no one can see us.


On one of his shows, Trevor Noah joked that China had increased the child allowance to two because one child gets lost in the pollution. He has no idea how true that statement can be.



A firecracker lighter watching his handiwork.


If one is going to run through the flames, have a good partner-in-crime who is just as brave