By Day, By Night

By day, our view is the quintessential beach shot. 

By night, our view turns into a sci-fi-esque landscape; the green glowing eyes of demonic water spirits hovering along the horizon, also known as squid fishing boats. 

On other nights, we are treated to a majestic light show. 

Beach life is never dull. 

Koh Samui: Magical Buddha Garden

Nestled high in the hills of the island is a quirky, concrete garden of statues created by a dead fruit farmer. Definitely high in the quirky meter, definitely a place worthy of investigating, but - to my shock - it was not the place I thought it was to be. 

I had a case of mistaken scenic site identity, which buggered me the entire visit. 

Eccentric scenic sites always grab my attention. I tend to find many through the BBC travel webpage, with others discovered through Pinterest or even a Google search involving the words quirky and a location. Before arriving in Thailand, I had read about a man who took in tossed aside idols and gave them a home in the mountain, providing a sanctuary of sorts. His efforts resulted in a rather large garden for meditation and solace. 

Fast forward a few weeks. We are on the island and I mention to our house host about this garden of gods. She gushes about the serenity and beauty, a place for true meditation and renewal. She agrees to drop us off on her way to work.

Imagine my surprise upon descending the steps to find life sized Buddhist deities, animals, and house-like structures. 

I was completely flummoxed. All the key adjective words had matched. So, were there two Buddha gardens on the island? My inquisition would wait, for there was a unknown site to explore. 

Thanks to the recent rains, the waterfall and stream were gushing. It cut off our path to the other side, but the accessible side had enough to entertain us.   

The farmer began the garden when he was 71, slowly building the statues and space until his death at 91. One can tell the love and adoration lacks from the current caretakers, but a smidge of dilapidation in a tropical setting tends to give places a certain charm. The forest will always take over quickly when not tamed or maintained. 

There are no information signs to explain scenes or statues, so unless one is very well versed in Buddhist lore, this is just a place to relish in the eccentric setting. Granted, not all statues are deities, for there were some animals and definitely one human, which is said to be the man who created the place. I love that in all of his creating, he made a point to put himself in the place for however long concrete may last. 

We really enjoyed the bandstand statues. I do have a fondness for Asian religions in that they always seem to have a perpetual party at hand in their epic tales or in their art depictions.  

We were unsure if this was Mr. Fruit Farmer's effort in creating a photo booth, but if it was, it is in a precarious place. Either by erosion or design, the footing for this photoshoot was minimal and Zach nearly slid into the river.

This was a fun place to explore. We had it to ourselves except for the ten minutes that a group of six appeared, walked through, snapped a few photos, then disappeared. It was as described - peaceful, calm, and quirky.

As for the mystery in regards to what I actually thought we were going to see...hours later, after a stroll down the mountain and a good pit stop at a 7-11, I shuffled around in my travel notes and internet bookmarks. I found my Buddha garden....which is located in Hong Kong. So close, but a closed border between us.  

Koh Samui: Chao Eng Sae Shrine and Guan Yu Shrine

 

Follow the temples. Follow the churches. Follow the shrines. Follow the religious structures to find the movement of people and their beliefs. Religious monuments tend to be the breadcrumbs of human migration. 

Contrary to most historical teachings, the Chinese were seafaring people, especially those from coastal provinces or the island of Hainan. Thanks to the prolific seagoing ways of a bygone era, we tend to stumble across Chinese temples most places we travel today.

Koh Samui is proving to be quite a hot spot for Chinese influence. Granted the location on the eastern seaboard of Thailand allows for easy access, but it was a maritime safe haven from typhoons and rough seas (from what I have been told by locals.) Due to this, we have discovered Chinese temples on the north, east, and west sides of the island.  

The Chao Eng Sae Shrine is the northern temple built by Maenam Beach. Traditional in style, vibrant in color, and overseen by the grumpiest of woman. She tailed us our entire visit, acting as if we were plotting to theive the family deity statues. Her antics were more memorable than the actual temple, to be honest. 

On the east side of the island is a gigantic Guan Yu statue, that cannot be missed when driving the ring road. True to feng shui practices, he faces the ocean as the temple complex climbs mountain-like at his back. The temple construction is recent, a 2008 reconstruction of a shrine that was already standing in the location. However, in true Chinese fashion - bigger gets more tourists, so a behemoth angry ancient military general scowls at all who walk up the steps to investigate what lies behind him.   

Behind are the traditional halls, though the first one took us by surprise because it did not have a threshold to step over upon entering. Why notice the lack of a threshold? In temples around the world, the threshold keeps the evil spirits out because they cannot step over it. This is also why most temples will have visitor signs stating to not lean one foot on the threshold, while keeping the other on the ground for an evil spirit can use such a pose to enter.

I have to say that temples on this island are well maintained, for we have not run across a rugged, dingy, or derelict temple yet. This one was delightfully colorful and welcoming. The side rooms showed history and artifacts pertaining to the Chinese migration and the appreciation of Guan Yu. An interesting find was a display of what the complex should look like - it is not finished in its current state. A few more temples and buildings are projected to be built. No timeline was given, but it was fascinating to learn that more is to come.

Koh Samui: Mummified Monk

I do have a weird adoration for the macabre of life. I cannot watch a horror movie, but give me a wicked story of a vampire tombstone in Vermont or a room filled with unidentified mummies in Egypt or an underground catacomb recently uncovered in Rome and I am absolutely fascinated. Of course, this interest of mine of death and death rituals around the world is not one I can discuss with many. It is morbid - understandably. However, years ago I read a BBC article about Bhutan's belief that contemplating death five times a day leads to a greater appreciation of life. I have implemented the practice for myself for at least once a day, and I find it to be rejuvenating in outlook. As Rick Riordan wrote in Tyrant's Tomb: Life is only precious because it ends. A daily reminder of the end gives a greater appreciation of the now.

However, I will note at this point, that I have seen the horror of death in our travels. A walk through the killing fields and S21 in Cambodia or the battlefields of Laos and Vietnam is gut wrenching. I still cannot talk about the killing fields without pausing and squashing the anger that rises within my soul. The horrors that humans can inflict upon fellow humans will always infuriate and baffle me.

Yet, back to the quirky and unusual - I discovered such a story here on Samui. Therefore, it had to the be the first stop on our one-day island tour. 

At Wat Khunaram, there is a mummified monk who sits in a glass box wearing a pair of sunglasses. I rarely share the informational signs at sites, but this one was a gem in information and bizarre English.

For 48 years, this gentleman has been overseeing the ebb and flow of worshippers and gawking tourists from his perch. He looks quite regal and quite good for nearly five decades of death. 

Our driver, Chris, even regaled us with tales he had heard about post-death hair and nail growth. As he told his insights, I watched locals stop for a prayer and a photo - in that order.

The complex is a two wat structure - the one closest to the road is the mummified monk's domain, the second set farther back  on the property and to the left. Sadly, it was closed to visitors due to Covid. 

However, parked between the two buildings was a contraption of great interest. It was a float elaborately decorated with traditional characters. It was massive and stunning. Upon our exclamations of delight, Chris told us about a local traditional custom that takes place in October; a festival when the villages of the island create a float of their own design. On the designated day, the floats are brought together for a parade and awards. With a toss of his head and a flick of his hand, he informed us that Lipa Noi (his area) always wins. We begged him to keep us informed of this festival and the dates for this year, for we see a very good and valid reason to return to Samui. 

Koh Samui: Wat Ratchathammaram

Located south of Lamai Beach, plopped alongside the island ring road is a wat of simplicity. The usual razzle and dazzle set aside for the use of terracotta with a red hue. The official name is Wat Ratchathammaram, but it is also known as Lamai Red Temple or Snake Stone Temple.

The artistry of this wat is found in the carving and sculpting that covers every surface of it. From the deities to the main Buddha to the tree of life, all is chiseled and honed by hand. Chris, a local who was with us on this adventure, told us there is a school for this craft - a place I really want to visit now. 

I enjoyed seeing the marks of placement tucked behind a few of the statues adhered to the walls. 

There is not a lot of history tucked into this place that I can uncover, for the informational sign briefly highlighted its creation in 1955, with the King and Queen stopping by in 1962.

A stroll to the back of the complex leads to a stupa, a handful of snake statues, a smattering of tombstone stupas, a glorious view of the ocean, and (on our day) two cackling women shaking the trees to make the tamarind pods fall. They delighted in our fascination of them pilfering the goods, while we could not help but join their laughter as we wandered for it was infectious. 

Life Moments

When we landed on Koh Samui, we thought we had been successful in obtaining employment. In technicality speech, we had. We were excited! We were offered contracts. 

We accepted. 

Then, we did not. 

There is a lot of story between those two sentences, which cannot be adequately conveyed in a blog post. However, it can be said that upon our first visit to the campus there were a handful of red flags, ones we thought we could deal with throughout the year. However, the more conversations we had with the administration and random strangers we met on the island, the red flags became exploding flares. For example, how can an administration not explain eleven weeks of a year missing from a contract? Or, why will the department director not allow us to meet or chat with other teachers? Or, when we mention the school to local expats, they visually cringe a bit while telling us it could be a good fit?

It was too much. We felt in the end that our decision to be in Thailand was correct, but our decision to sign with that vocational college was not correct. 

We walked away. 

We have not regretted the decision and have been shown multiple times since then why it was a wise move. 

A month later, a similar situation with a school we agreed to teach with in northern Thailand. Unfortunately, they strung us along for an entire month without submitting visa paperwork. 

The following evening, we interview with a teacher who is a screener for a school. He loves us and says the director will definitely want us because she needs three teachers. The next morning he tells us to contact the director and to let him know when we arrive so he can pick us up from the airport. We contact the director immediately, to be met with "why did you not contact me earlier?" and "I only need one teacher!" We were flabbergasted that in a twelve hour time span we went from job to no job. Even the screener was stunned. 

We are realizing that Thailand is chaos in hiring. 

But that does not make us feel good. We have had a few maddening days with a good dash of doldrums. Our friend, Hillary, attempted to soothe our tumultous minds (as we bobbed in the ocean waves) one evening with these sage words: it is not normal times and it has nothing to do with you. 

Covid collapse, as I am affectionately calling it now, has begun to creep into schools. Over the past month, the dreaded C made an appearance, much to the chagrin of the naysayers and conspiracy theorists. The result has been spastic measures in containment and a delayed return to the classroom for the next term - which works in our favor. However, the whisper among forums and employment blogs is that schools are in dread mode of the potential of online, which may result in hiring freezes. 

Life is messy.

Yet, life is still good. 

Life on this semi deserted island is not boring. Mini explorations and people connections continue to amuse us, as well as our daily dose of ocean and sunset. As we fully grasped so many years ago in the Phillipines, trading the extraordinary for the ordinary can be special in its own way. Here are some snapshots that capture the ordinary.

There are two things I have such a deep and profound gratefulness after living in Southeast Asia - water and electricity. The power poles of Asia are unsung heroes for I have no idea how they bear such weight and chaos and still stand - all while providing the electric current for the wild disco lights in the tin-and-twine shed next door...and as I typed that sentence our lights flickered on and off. 

Plumeria is my absolute favorite flower in this region. I always stop to smell, though most times the scent is so prevalent that I can saunter by and savor the moment. 

I snapped this photo specifically for my boat-loving friend, Robert. We are oftentimes dreaming and scheming of what craft we could procure to sail the seven seas. I felt this was a potential prototype.

The trees rain flowers. Yellow flower, golden sunset, and a beach setting - so lovely. 

A snapshot of the main road as I sat waiting for Zach to finish getting his hair and beard cut. 

The local barber shop that has become Zach's go-to spot. They do it all - complete with a nose hair trim. Price? Three dollars. 

After two months on the island, we are learning the local treats such as this delightful coffee shop. The Road Less Travelled has become our spot for days needing some ambiance and good coffee (for Zach.) A few weeks ago, we had the treat of live jazz one afternoon, with the Scottish owner surprising us with amazing vocals (not pictured.)

Tuesday evenings are Nathon Town night market - our place for yummy, cheap eats. It has become tradition to pack the sarang as the picnic blanket and plop somewhere for an evening of treats and exquisite views after acquiring an eclectic mix of food. The samosa/naan bread stand has become our favorite. 

Life in a one room beach bungalow comes without a kitchen and a table. Picnic style is our go-to most evenings, either inside to avoid the mass horde of flying bugs or on the front porch when we only have to battle mosquitos; the hot plate and pot lent to us by a friend allow for some things to be homemade. 

We put on our brave pants and helmets and have taken to learning the ways of motobiking. This our current stead, a most gracious contraption that has widened our explorations, but has spoiled us because we do not have to walk for thirty minutes (one way) carrying our daily rations of drinking water. 

Butterfly pea tea reminds me of my Nanny as she always said things that look pretty cannot taste bad (she most often said this about cranberry sauce.) In the case of butterfly pea tea, it is a glorious purple when brewed and enjoyed most often as a chilled tea. In this picture, I loved the ginger/honey/butterfly pea tea mix, as well as its beauty. Sometimes I wonder if she would be bemused or flabbergasted at all the beautiful things I have tasted....and seen. 

Ah, the era of pandemic advertising is in full force. 

From Jungle to Sea

I think we have ran/walked this race in three countries at this point; most often designating ourselves at the farthermost-from-the-actual-race-course team. It has become an annual tradition to participate in the Southwest Hope 5K, a fundraiser for a food pantry in SW Portland. This year, we won the Most Altitude Lost During a Walk award - we started on top of the mountain and finished by the sea. 

Yet to be known was that our calves and thighs would utterly detest us the following three days.

In the moment though, the race was a great reason to get from point A to point B. Though, I think we may have also won the Most Side Jaunts Award as well. Curiosity and meandering roads are a dangerous combination - which is how Zach discovered the random helipad tucked on a small knoll behind a banana tree plantation. I was taking pictures, he was sussing where rich people land to gank some free bananas.  

After so many days by the sea, it was refreshing to be among the lush and green of tropical life. The road was barely traveled, except for the constant thorn of grungy soi dogs. They are a menace and usually inspire us to carry a stick or a handful of rocks in our pocket. One of our side rambles was nearly thwarted by a pack, but the caretaker came out wielding a lot of Thai words and flailing arms which caused them to quickly settle. Which was nice considering it was a wat-in-progress, a hidden spot for some great views of the island. It was intriguing to see that big statues were already placed, yet no walls were constructed. The naga stairway was tiled, but everything else was bare concrete and erratic rebar. I wonder if this approach to building a wat inspires a quicker giving of funds so the gods do not get bashed by tropical storms or melt from heat stroke. I feel as though I must add wat builder to my list of people I really want to meet in my life. 

I felt this statue was quite appropriate for the menegerie of dogs far below our perched concrete oasis - a large dose of "woah."

No ramble is complete without a good pitstop. We found such a perch in an abandoned drink shop bungalow. It looked rather new, presumably a casualty of covid collapse. The wind cooled and a gecko serenaded us as we rested and drank. 

Along our route we passed a military base for journalists (or it seemed with the bad English translation), walked over a strangely designed bridge, navigated some gnarly hairpin turns, acknowledged a handful of super spiritual cliffs, and garnered a few bizarre looks from locals because no one walks around these parts. The moment we reached the main road, we celebrated our journey with a stop at 7-11, because that is the most Thai thing a person can do after winning the Slowest Race Time award.