Tuesday, December 31, 2013

2013 Year in Review: A to Z

During her annual Christmas address this year, Queen Elizabeth II encouraged the masses to find the balance between reflection and action, stating that, "With so many distractions, it is easy to forget to pause and take stock." This semester has been an over-active one for us and the grading pile during December has continually grown. Nonetheless, it is wise to reflect and I have found this practice to be helpful for me each year. Unashamedly, 2013 was another great year for us. We added five more country stamps to our passports. We continue to love living abroad. Friendships have grown stronger, near and far. We became season ticket holders for the Thorns and Timbers. We were on Chinese television twice (that we know about), in the newspaper twice (that we know about) and walked in a parade. 


Since I so enjoyed it last year, I am re-doing the year in review according to the alphabet. I have changed some headings because I still do not care about the best beer. 

A: Afraid

Frequently we hear lamentations from our students that travel is dangerous. Why we cannot negate the fact that unusual and frightening situations do occur, they tend to be rare. Nonetheless, we seem to have one a year and this year's brush with danger occurred between Kuala Lumpur and Mersing, in transit to get to Tioman Island. Stuffed onto a ratty bus with a bunch of sexually-frustrated, testosterone-driven boys, our inner gut screamed trouble when the leader of the pack eyed Zach and taunted with body language. Within minutes, we heeded the warning, pushed our way off the bus and spent a lovely night in a small Malaysian town. 


B: Bizarre Experience

Guizhou takes this award. It was a last minute call for foreigners to join an all expense paid trip. The promised translator, other foreigners and vegetarian food never materialized. The entire trip ended up being completely different than what was promoted. In the throes, it was hard, tiring and weirdly delightful. It has become a similar tale to Egypt; the more time that passes, the more we enjoy telling the stories and appreciate what we actually got to do during our time there. 

C: Cuisine (Favorite)

The tofu in Indonesia. Sarah is going to chastise me, but I forget the actual name. However, one of my favorite dishes that it was in is called gado gado. 


E: Event that you experienced that made you say 'Wow.'

The plain of Bagan was breathtaking. The first time we were able to climb a temple and gaze across the expanse, we were truly lost for words. Throughout our seven days, we found every available opportunity to climb. 


F: Favorite picture of the year

Myanmar: Morning mist and monks.

Runner up would be this picture I recently captured in Macau. I love the simplicity.  


G: Grossest Moment

Returning from our summer holiday and discovering that mold had overtaken our hutong. It was a rough welcome back to China. 


H: Happiest moment

Touching an elephant in Malaysia. I nearly cried with excitement.    

I: Incredible service you have experienced and where

During our overnight transit from Bali to China, we spent the night in a hotel that had just opened up to the public. It was in the soft-launch stage, testing the staff and systems. It was incredible, one of those experiences that makes you scratch your head and wonder how that could have been possible. Plus, they had the best pool in the world (that we have seen.)


J: Journey that took you the longest

Our quest to reach Gili Air in Indonesia. Trains, planes, ferries, taxis and I forget what else it took to reach that island that was a mere ten minutes off the coast of Lombok. 

K: Keepsake from your travels.

We picked up an unusual "art" piece this year thanks to Sarah's host family. While we were staying with them, they changed the license plate on their vehicles. Zach asked if we could have the old ones and they agreed. One now hangs next to our desk in the office; every time I look at it, I am reminded of a beautiful family with the biggest heart for hospitality. 

L: Let down sight. Why and where?

My expectations for Kuala Lumpur were high for a city that calls itself the Pearl of the Orient. I expected something similar to Bangkok or Hong Kong. After four days, I still could not wrap my head around KL. Beside a towering skyscraper would be a belching, tattered bus missing half the seats. For every modern amenity, there were four things that could be found in our village in China. Plus, the brand new, state-of-the-art airport sucks. 


M: Moment where you (re)fell in love with travel.

Facing thousands of participants and spectators while holding a banner won by my dragon boat team reminded me living abroad is a grand experience. I am so thankful for this season. 

N: Nicest hotel you stayed in this year. 

Being placed in the Executive Suite in the Charming Hotel on our trip to Macau technically takes the award for nicest hotel. However, I would argue that Harry's Ocean Hostel in Pacitan was the best of the year. The cute bungalow, the incredible outdoor shower and the most inviting front porch remains etched in my memory months later. It was a small version of my dream home. 


O: Opera

Opera watching has taken a few of our evenings this year. The wails in the night beckoned us for a couple of hours, not for the story but for the amazing costumes and scenery. A true Chinese experience alongside the young and old of local villages.


P: Paradise of the Year

Threats of monsoons kept the tourists away, so for three days we had the beach to ourselves on Tioman Island. It was a unique experience, highlighted by the fact we were with friends, Marshall and Bryan. 


Q: Quirkiest attraction you have visited and where.

The rock that looks like a penis in Danxiashan, Guangdong. The number of Chinese who clamor to see this mountainous irregularity is astounding. 


R: Relaxed 

Our weeks in Portland were so relaxing, but one day that stands out was when Kaden and I took to the Gorge. It was a day that made it feel as though we had never moved to China; Kaden and I were on an adventure and all was right with the world. 


S: Superstar Moment

The flailing hands and squeals of delight as a mob of women attacked my husband on Borobudur is the funniest case of mis-identification this year. The lines, the pictures, the clamor for attention still make us chuckle.  

T: Touristy thing you have done. 

The Miao Village in Guizhou was the most touristy destination of our year. It screamed Asian Gatlinburg. 

U: Unforgettable travel memory

April confessing that she did not know how to use a squatty potty. 

When we told her about squatty potties during one of our Skype sessions, she said she understood. So, when we walked into the first bathroom at the bus station and she said, "How do I do this?", I retorted, "If you take your pants off, you are doing it wrong." Weeks later, while eating dinner in Yuanyang, she confessed that she actually did not know how to use a squatty potty and thought we had meant she would have to 'hover' over the toilet bowl because they were so gross. 


V: Visit of the year

April came to China! We never thought we would have a visitor from the states and we were thrilled to a have another partner in a crime for a month. 

W: Worst transportation experience

The twenty-two hour train ride to Kunming was hell. Hard back seats and the slowest train ever made this trek practically intolerable. However, the crazy kleptomaniac in the middle of the night was an entertaining distraction. 


X: eXecllent view and from where

Waking up to the sounds of women's giggles outside our window, our gaze was quickly drawn outside. The view from our hotel was beyond anything that could be imagined. The rice fields of Yuanyang were breathtaking, mesmerizing and practically magical. 


Y: Your hardest moment while traveling

While our year was reasonably calm, friends and family around the globe had a rough year. Learning via email that my dad's True Value Hardware store had burned was hard, as were the following conversations with my mom. It was another poignant reminder that sometimes living overseas can suck. 


Z: Zealous sports fans and where.

Timbers Army. 

Monday, December 23, 2013

Christmas Tidings


December has been overshadowed this year with growing piles of papers and to-dos. We are not alone, for it seems many staff within our department are having to pull extra work due to multiple staff medical issues. We figured we would be the ones handed Barbara's papers to grade. We even made a general outline of how to accomplish the task before we officially received the word. What we did not anticipate was how it would cause a frenzy within our own courses and due paperwork. The fact that we did not even watch a Christmas movie until the fifteenth is testament to the busyness. Nonetheless, we have had moments to remind ourselves that Christmas does occur this month.


During my Christmas culture class, I introduced the students to photobooth props. Since I have seen so many photobooth photos with weddings, birthdays and holidays, I decided it would be something my students would love. Chinese love to take photos of themselves. My prediction proved correct for the students went crazy and 'pictures with props' became the trending topic on Weibo for the week. Another hit was the month-long Secret Santa between classmates. It was so fun to hear the stories of the stealth and not-so-stealth as they tried to bring holiday cheer to their target (as one student called her person.)


One of the greatest delights of living overseas is sharing culture. The things I take for granted or just assume that most people know about seem to extract the most curiosity from our students and friends. For example, our students are practically dying to taste turkey; their obsession is comical. Not all things raise such fascination, but holidays and their traditions are discussed quite frequently.


This year I decided to share the love of Christmas cookies with some of our closer friends. Due to size of my oven and space, I could not invite as many as I would have loved. However, the four, who spent the afternoon in our hutong, had a great time. I loved when decorating the sugar cookies, Marsha declared, "I have always wanted to try to make these cookies since I see them on TV all the time."

 
For the third year, we gathered with our fellow foreign teachers for lunch and the Secret Santa reveal. Rob and Yvonne hosted this year, sharing an Australian tradition of bon-bons or poppers; the contents varied from fake mustaches to itty-bitty rulers, but the consistent prize was a paper crown and a joke.



Since I had the props leftover from class, I decided it would be an added bonus to the Christmas festivities. After eating so much yummy food, we spent time chatting and took breaks throughout to snap a few funny photos.



Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Thomas Brought the Rain


Thomas entered our hutong a bit drenched. For the next four days, it poured. All locals were flabbergasted by the monsoon conditions. Yes, Zhanjiang gets typhoons but they are quick and destructive. This was an endless downpour. Sadly, Thomas' goal of seeing the countryside of Zhanjiang was dashed, though he provided a lot of fun stories and distractions to our grading. If anything, I believe he continues on in his hitchhiking journey with a greater appreciation for Chinese writing; we laughed a lot at the tales of our students' journals.

Saturday, December 14, 2013

Birthday Celebrations


It was a night to celebrate Lee and Leo's birthday, as well as welcome couchsurfer, Thomas, to our hutong. Dinner with this crew is always a blast and their exclamations of delight in trying new foods was fun to hear.


The highlight of the evening was the American birthday cake, to which Leo was really excited to cut and dish out to the eager friends.


Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Rats!


The Thursday before our Macau trip, the washer went boom during a late night wash cycle. The repairman came to investigate after our return from Macau. We had warned Carrie that we had been battling rats as of late and feared they had eaten the wires of the washer. In my feeble Chinese, I told the same to the repairman. He clucked his tongue and shook his head, especially after I conveyed the loud boom part of the story.

Approximately five minutes later, a loud "aiyah" was voiced from balcony. Zach and I quickly ran. The sight was repulsive. The repairman was pulling a sock from underneath the washer.

Sock. Sock. Sock. Dishtowel. Sock. Garbage bag. Sock. Sock. Garbage bag. Ribbon. Walnut shell. Sock. Sock. Dishtowel. Sock. Sock.

The witty rodents has been plucking our socks and dishtowels from the clothesline in the dead of night to warm their nest. Ten socks. Not pairs. It was disgusting and my squeals of revulsion were loud enough to bring Rob and Yvonne to their balcony. Meanwhile, the repairman laughed and laughed at our antics, all while untangling the nest from the motor's nooks and crannies. Eventually, all was removed, the washer was working again and the small hole on the side of the washer was taped over to detour permanent residency.

War was declared and all traps were put into place. For two nights, the traps were triggered but no catch. However, a trail of blood led away from the trap into the drain the second night. We hope it is enough of a warning for all rats to stay away from our hutong.

Saturday, December 7, 2013

Macau!


Months ago, we plotted with Roger and Ada for a weekend jaunt to explore Macau during our long weekend compliments of the sports competition. Similar to Hong Kong, Macau is labeled a special economic zone. It enjoys a few more privileges than the mainland, including the much-sought thrill of gambling. Apparently, Macau brings in more revenue per year than Vegas, though Macau does not enjoy the cheap hotel and food prices that Vegas prides itself on. Nonetheless, we forewent the gambling (we have been to Vegas) and spent our time looking at the amazing architecture, historical sights and plethora of Christmas decoration.

Macau was in the control of the Portuguese for many years, therefore it has beautiful Portuguese architecture and colors. The detail work was breathtaking; I wanted to buy all the tiles. As for the building colors, breathtaking. Yellows, oranges, blues, greens and even bubble gum pink. We took a stroll down the old "red light" district. Back in the day, if the red door was open, the lady of the house was available. Today, it is home to restaurants, almond cookie stands and secret dwellers since doors and shutters remained shuttered at 9am.



Baked not in ovens but over warm air, almond cookies are one of the famous treats of the island. Hundreds of shops line the streets, handing out free samples while the smell of roasting almonds waft through the alleyways. We ate our way through the streets.


We visited a variety of sights from the famed A-Ma Temple to numerous cathedrals to the Maritime Museum to a former merchant's home which displays a beautiful blend between western and eastern construction methods.


Obviously a highlight for us was the abundance of Christmas decorations. The variety was beautiful and we made sure to revisit the square at night so we could see them lit. However, gazing at Christmas decorations while wearing shorts and flip flops is a conundrum.


Due to high prices and lack of rooms, Zach and I had to spend our one night across the Gongbei border. Waiting in line, our wait time passed quickly for we were distracted by the Chinese around us. Loaded with Barbie dolls, Pringles and even bottles of shampoo, mainlanders queued in clumps. We were flabbergasted as to what was being pilfered across the border. Even funnier was watching the Macau residents lugging cheap clothes and goods back to Macau from the mainland. It is a bizarre, symbiotic relationship between Zhuhai and Macau residents.

Our morning jaunt back across the border was hell. It seemed everyone decided to go to Macau on Sunday and a journey that had taken us about thirty minutes the previous day, took over two hours. Our time was limited due to a early afternoon bus back to Zhanjiang, so we were able to only visit the lighthouse and the lobby of the Grand Lisboa Casino, which displays artifacts of ancient China. The highlight of the exhibit is a horse head sculpture that was allegedly looted from the original Summer Palace in Beijing.


Macau was a delightful weekend jaunt. Like most big cities, we could not live there, but we look forward to another chance to walk its beautiful and intriguing alleyways.

Friday, December 6, 2013

Annual Sports Competition


Blue skies and warm temperatures are a rarity for the annual sports day competition, as the past two years have been overcast and windy. Another rarity was that we were actually asked to participate alongside our Chinese colleagues in the tug of war this year. The added bonus of this ask was being a part of the opening ceremony parade. For the second time in two months, Zach and I were in a Chinese parade. However, this time we were not mobbed but enjoyed a rowdy cheer from the crowd.


It was a fun experience to be on the other side of the flags, enjoying the hustle and bustle of the participants on the football field. After the official proclamation declaring the games open, the performances began with the traditional lion dance, the tai zi fan dance, martial arts demonstrations and girls waving flowers (who happened to consist primarily of our students.)


The atmosphere was jolly, laughter abounded and trash talking ensued. The continual flip flopping of where the faculty tug of war would take place was typical organizational mayhem, yet spirits could not be dampened on such a beautiful day.


The basketball court was our battleground. Zach faced a pre-battle against four kids. Their giggles were infectious and the parents found it funny that a foreigner would actually take time to entertain their children. It was a rough battle until a little boy found the bravery to join Zach's side, which turned the tide.


As for our turn with the rope, the faculty of Foreign Languages did not prevail. The technique most of the team used was to squeeze together so tightly that movement was impossible. As foreigners we had a good laugh because we knew we were doomed from the start; tug of war is about moving backwards, not standing still. Nonetheless, it was a great effort, we had fun and I made a point to tell Alexia to sign me up for the swimming competition next semester. I figured it could not hurt to start early in staking a claim in the water wars.

Thursday, December 5, 2013

Beauty Among Busyness


The brown paper bags are piling up in the office. Student journals have taken over the couch. The to-do list is ever growing. The USB is filled with documents to print and turn into the office. Not only are we to grade our classes, but due to Barbara's illness, we have absorbed three hundred essays to read and grade.

December is here and it is busy.

However, there is beauty among the busyness. I thought it was appropriate that the first photo with my new camera would be of something beautiful and elegant. Our Christmas tree, a reminder of my favorite holiday in a sans-Christmas country.

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Today


Today, I saw my city from a new angle.


Today, I watched the charcoal man deliver his goods.


Today, I spotted a cat enjoying his balcony viewpoint.


Today, I watched a woman wash her laundry by the temple well.


Today, I watched a man buy a new mattress.


Today, I was reminded that I have the greatest partner in crime.


Today, I am grateful for friendships that span generations and nationalities.


Today, I joined many to celebrate two great friends. The father turned sixty, the son thirty.