Over the past few months, Zach and I have had multiple discussions pertaining to the idea of exact time versus period of time. The summation being that throughout history there are exact dates for some major events but a clumping of time for others. For example, rarely will a person begin a story with, "In 1943, I did....", but rather say "During the war (WWII), I did..." This theory has creeped into our chats because we are already noticing the clumping of these past two years; specific dates for 2019, but a "sometime during covid" for these past two. Which is why, once again, I find myself rather stumped in how to summarize a year which just seems like a continuation of the previous. Another year woven with chaos, intensity, terror, sadness, madness, delight, joy, newness, and wonder...yet had a few more twinges of fatigue and exposed some raggedy emotional edges.
We started the year as gig workers at Home Depot and Fred Meyer and finished the year as high school English teachers. We interviewed with more schools and agencies in four months than we did our entire time of living in China. We were offered jobs at four different schools before one finally and actually made it to the visa stage.
We completed all the Marvel movies, in timeline order, and visited the theatre for the first time since 2019 to watch The Eternals.
We learned how to drive a motorbike.
We were ensconced on a tropical island for three months.
It was a year of furry friends - a few weeks of cat-sitting followed by two guardians of the garden (aka Cookie and Bamboo, our complex mutts.)
Our October travel involved eight bus stations, two bikes, one truck, one car, two minibuses, two buses, and four hotels. Our entire journey, point to point, was 1208 km/750.6 miles.
We began the year crashing in the room behind the garage and ended the year living in the coziest, yellow bungalow (complete with a swimming pool).
We have spent ample hours around a fire pit in two countries.
We have played in snow and jaunted along beaches.
We forged a life in a new country.
Thai tea o'clock is a staple of everyday life.
We walked in three countries and seven airports.
Zach learned how to use photoshop.
Award of the Year
We have awarded ourselves the Triple Crown of Covid Award - we have dealt with this beast in three different countries; two official lockdowns and one 'it is not bad yet' mood. While I do not believe the virus was manmade, I do know that it has been wielded as a political weapon for countries, economies, and nationalism zeal. The clean vs unclean idea has very much fractured global cooperation, which will take years to recover.
Books
This is a doozy of a category this year. We far surpassed our past reading tallies thanks to a 14-day quarantine and a Covid lockdown on a beach. Needless to say, we had some free time.
Zach declares it the year of mediocrity for his reading, which is fascinating considering he finished 73 books for a total of 16,685 pages read. Even in a humdrum year, there were some standouts. Here are his top five books of 2021:
Half the World by Joe Abercrombie
A tale of a street rat turned badass warrior who is angry about everything but somehow becomes an amazing fighter, eventually emerges as the champion of the land. Joe Abercrombie has a wit and a humor that makes his stories difficult to put down.
Brotherband Series: Outcasts by John Flanagan
Buddy stories are what John Flanagan does the best. A motley crew of misfits who must overcome obstacles to become the merry band of men makes for a delightful story.
The Girl the Sea Gave Back by Adrienne Young
The story of a girl born in another land to another people who is sacrificed to the water goddess. She is miraculously saved, only to be raised in a culture not of her own and not to be accepted by the people her entire life. She is always trying to belong amidst a warring people who are bent on the destruction of their neighbors.
Queen's Peril by EK Johnston
It is a beautiful look into the rise of Queen Amidala; how she chooses, acquires, and eventually becomes dearest of friends with her handmaidens. This book shows Padme's strength of character and wisdom in which she governs her people.
The Skyward Novellas by Brandon Sanderson
Fun survival stories about people who have not been in the universe but are now learning how to be in the universe, all while surviving a tyrannical power that wants to kill them all because they are "too aggressive."
As for me, I read 120 books. I did not finish three of them (which I must admit one being A Promised Land by Barack Obama - holy hell, what a tome and not a beach read!) I had 19 re-reads. I continued my quest of looking around the world for literary entertainment, so I read books from 12 countries. My first book of the year was Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame and my last was Royal Ranger: Escape from Falaise by John Flanagan. I dabbled in the graphic novel realm in tackling Neil Gaiman's Sandman series (as well as enjoying a few other books I had not done in his literary portfolio.) My year also included a grim trend in reading a novel followed by the author dying soon after completion. I chronicled 57 quotes from my reads (which I will share in another post.) Mediocrity was not the theme of my year (though there were a couple that would fit the category), so choosing a top five was actually rather thought provoking. Here are my picks:
The Iron Druid series by Kevin Hearne
I have a handful of dear friends that are in the book-know. If one of these souls tells me to read something, I do. I cannot recall a time when I have been led astray by this beloved circle. This series is such a recommendation. I did not read this series, I devoured it. Two of them were read between the USA and Thailand, 33,000 feet in the air. I will acknowledge the final two were a bit wonky and a bit frustrating as an ending. However, Kevin Hearne released a spin-off series, Ink and Sigil, which I feel actually redeems and gives a deeper context to the final book. Nonetheless, this series made me laugh, cry, cringe, have delusions of druid living, and be completely reminded that good and bad often walk hand-in-hand.
Travels with Myself and Another by Martha Gellhorn
There is a definite camaraderie among those who travel. I needed this book this year. I needed to experience familiar places through another's eyes. I needed to be reminded that while travel is hard, it is so worth it. I so adored this book that I sent it to my mom for her birthday and I do plan to buy myself a copy (hopefully, a good ragged, very-loved, tea-stain-on-page-52 type edition) one day.
Land of Big Numbers by Te-Ping Chen
There are some fantastic short stories based in and around China as of late. Of course, I always approach these books with some apprehension of what could be, but I have yet to be disappointed. This one nailed a lot of Chinese nuance and modern-day issues.
This Tender Land by William Kent Krueger
This was another recommendation from my in-the-book-know circle. I opened it on my e-reader one night to read "just a chapter." Ten chapters later and past an acceptable-for-school-the-next-day bedtime, I was enraptured. What a tale that involved all the things I love - canoes, community, adventure, water; and a lot of what I despise - abuse of power, corruption, disdain for what is different, hatred for people based on social standing or skin color. I had a number of moments of pure anger and deep sadness.
Northwind by Gary Paulson
If there was an author pivotal to my early reading years, Gary Paulsen is it. His tales of survival in the harshest of moments have captivated me for years. Hatchet is practically permanently imprinted in my mind and this one is most likely to be as well. Oh, how he wrote death in this one was brilliant. With the greatest of sorrow, this is now his last novel. This was one of those grim moments when I finished the book and the author died the next week.
Honorable Mention: Addysen and I waited sooooooo long for this book to arrive at the library. It finally did...after I had left the country. So, she read it to me over video chat. It is so simple, yet so profound. I put it on my e-reader and, on days when I need a reminder of a mole loving cake or a nudge of encouragement, I open it for a moment of solace.
Destination of the Year: Tak
We were able to check off a couple Thailand bucket list items this year, but a bonus stop was in Tak. We absolutely adore friend hometowns and Bon's did not disappoint. We found ourselves quite charmed with weaving alleyways and quirky shops, fascinated by such a mash-up wat, and got a VIP introduction to the Thailand national parks system - which has been an inspiration to seek out more of these lush, green spaces near our bungalow.
Event that Made You Say Wow: Loy Krathung
This has been THE holiday I have wanted to experience in Thailand. It involves all the things I cherish - water, culture, lanterns, and candles. It was a night that met all expectations and even added layers of enjoyment. The wild abandon of firework usage made us feel at home - and I am happy to report that the battered bridge has not collapsed as of this writing.
Famous Site: Wat Phumin
Unfortunately, I do have a backlog of travel tales and our days in Nan are in that category. It was an add-on to our October travels and it was fantastic, especially the opportunity to experience the iconic Wat Phumin. It is famous, rightly so.
Dubbed the Sistine Chapel of Thailand, its murals are incredible in creation and storytelling. They were painted over a 20-year span; a time period which involved the Nan kingdom becoming part of the larger conglomerate of Thailand. Therefore, a fair amount of mockery and satire can be seen among the depictions of daily life.
The most iconic image is of a man whispering into a woman's ear, which is rumored to be a self portrait of the artist. As with most things labeled famous, I found it not as entertaining as other smaller scenes around this one. Though, I do understand the fascination and ease of promotion - it is large, a good selfie spot, and easy to replicate on everything from magnets to T-shirts.
We spent a good hour and a half in this wat; a sit, stare at a wall for a while, stand, move to the left, sit repetitive loop. For this wat was not only dazzling in wall artistry but also in design. Instead of a long hall, Wat Phumin is in the shape of a plus symbol. Four doors stake the compass points of north, east, south, and west. Four Buddhas sit in the middle, each looking towards their respective door. This was the first wat I had seen this feature and it was stunning, especially with grand pillars between each. Wat Phumin was a marvel in many ways, and it is one that I would eagerly return to given the opportunity.
Guess What......teaching in Thailand actually sucks.
I owe an apology to every teacher I have met while traveling in Thailand; their bemoans of how bad the education system were always met with an "it can't be that bad" from me. We thought Chinese schools were a hot mess, so to even try to fathom something worse was mind boggling. Many encouraged us to go the private school route, but we wanted familiar and government systems were familiar to us. Our standards were quite low, yet apparently not low enough for Thai government schools. After seven months, we completely understand the bemoaning.
After seven months, many of our questions as to why Thailand seems to lag well behind Asian education standards have been answered. I read a document early in our teaching days here that basically said that skills don't rise to the hope of what could be, but rather fall to the level in which one is expected to perform. In a system of extreme corruption, groaning beneath political instability and groveling pomp and circumstance, the students run the asylum. Of course, covid has thrown some curveballs. But in the absence of strong and wise leadership, chaos reigns. In the chaotic whirlwind, we find ourselves quite bullied for petty, shallow things (how dare I take off my shoes improperly outside the door?!?), but told to just deal with archaic classrooms with no cords to connect electronics. As one co-worker so nicely summarized: we are trying to teach in a digital age using an analog system.
For all of our disgust at the job, we do not regret our decision. Every job teaches something and we have gained a much deeper insight and have begun to think through next steps in a teaching path with a much better perspective.
Hardest Moment: Saying Farewell to Matt
I will always say that the long term effects of covid - especially concerning mental health - will far surpass the actual covid damage. In the past year, we have had too many within our sphere of contact commit suicide; even a student at our current school did so in late October. So, for a dearest friend who tussled within his own mind, we were devastated that this year was the end for him. In August, perched on our couch halfway around the world, we joined a celebration for him via Zoom. It was cathartic to laugh at stories shared and cry realizing that those stories are what will sustain a very large absence in our world.
Immeasurable Gratitude
The running joke was that we had such a great time with the first that we had to stay around for the next one. In a sweep of poetic prose, Lisa's birthday celebrations were to be the bookends of our stateside sojourn. A lot happened between those fixed points - a lot of hard and a lot of good. No matter the emotion, our community around the world rallied in incredible ways - from notes of encouragement to financial support. When we decided to head to Thailand, there were equal doses of questioning our sanity as well as telling us to fly, to try, to do something no matter the outcome. We are continually grateful for our global village.
Journey that Took the Longest
Thanks to Covid crazy, public transit is a disaster. Our October travel made this very apparent, especially when we had to piecemeal a path from Nan to Chiang Rai. It was a fraught journey, filled with a lot of what-ifs and could-be connections. It worked, barely. When we exited the van at the Bus Terminal 2 in Chiang Rai, we did a happy dance that culminated in a high five.
Then we had to explain to the officers that we were not harbingers of covid doom and that we lived in this northern village.
Keepsake from TravelAside from a mighty stash of fabric purchases in Nan, mementos of 2021 were nil. However, Zach has become a regular deity liberator; meaning, he susses out the piles (usually found at the base of trees) of tossed-aside deity figurines. A toss into a rubbish bin is seen as unlucky, but an unwanted or broken figurine placed in the wild is seen as an acceptable method of disposing of the unwanted. Therefore, Zach says he is giving them a second life when pilfered, which has resulted in us having a menagerie of characters.
Lucky Moment: Entrance into the Kingdom
Even ten months later, we are stunned that this decision actually worked. Our arrival in the Kingdom set us into a well-orchestrated queue of which we said was better fit to handle arrivals than the days pre-covid. Chaos had been replaced with efficiency donned in hazmat suits. Our sigh of relief was audible once we were settled in our personal taxi bound for quarantine, surrounded by the scent of alcohol and sanitizer.
Moment When You Refell in Love with TravelInterestingly, this happened for both of us on the same journey, but at different moments. For Zach, it was sitting on a ruin in the main complex of Sukhothai, looking over a pond which reflected a Buddha and stupa on the other side. For me, it was our first night in Nan, sitting on a woven mat in the town square, listening to life music, and eating night market finds.

Nicest Hotel(s)
This category may be better suited to be the worst hotel rather than nicest considering our access to some amazing stays was a perk of the times. Nonetheless, looking at our nomadic wanderings, we think this category is a tie between Baan Wassana (our Samui beach bungalow) and The 8 Factory, our hostel in Phitsanulok. Our beach bungalow was perfect for days spent figuring out next steps and beach saturation. The hostel was warehouse/steampunk style - complete with a great ambiance and a laundry mat next door.
However, the nicest pool at a hotel award goes to the Imperial Riverhouse. By chance, we lived at the one hotel with the best swimming pool in Chiang Rai.
Overseas Flights
I felt there were a handful of once-in-a-lifetime moments this year. One being our international flights. Used to days of rowdy, crowded economy classes, the experience of empty rows and a skeleton crew was bizarre. I could throw a lot of adjectives into the mix, but I do not think any word or phrase could aptly convey the visceral shock of such a moment. Such emotions did not keep us from savoring full rows to ourselves and creating an almost first-class experience.
Pictures of the Year
Always, always, always - this category is a tough one to be narrowed.
Before we departed the motherland, we experienced a deluge of snowfall which made for epic sledding and snowball throwing. We loved spending ample time among the wintry mix with some of our favorite people.
This was an accidental photo. I was tinkering one night on the beach, trying to learn a few new features of my camera. I had no idea what I had captured until I returned to the bungalow. Out of 500ish shots, this was one of six that really captured the incoming storm.
As mentioned earlier, a once-in-a-lifetime moment is the tag of this photo. We walked through six airports this year, four of them showcased a scene like this one. This shot was taken after landing and taxiing to the gate at Suvarnabhumi Airport in Bangkok. Row upon row upon row upon row of behemoth planes, lined nose to tail, filled gate alleyways and spare runways. It was even more disheartening to the see the ones stripped of engines and wrapped in silver mylar.
The Blue Temple (Wat Rong Suea Ten) continues to remain my favorite temple in Thailand. During our initial weeks living in Chiang Rai, we stayed in a hotel next to this temple. It became a nightly ritual to walk and bask in its serenity. One drizzly evening, I walked alone. When I turned the corner to peek in the front doors, I caught a rare sight of a monk cleaning the marble Buddha. His saffron orange robes were a stark contrast to the bright white god.
With a journalistic inquisitiveness, I spent a lot of time throughout the second half of the year photographing the surrounding rice fields. This was another accidental shot.
Nan was definitely a highlight, and I loved this image of Buddha overlooking the town at sunset. I actually imagine this could be a stunning shot at sunrise - I just will never wake up in time to capture it.
Quarantine
We are probably the only two people who will loudly proclaim that we loved quarantine. Granted, we had choices where to stay which is rare in the quarantine venture, yet it was still a chance and luck was on our side. Our 15 days spent at the Centre Point Pratunam were bliss. Our days were full and so were our stomachs, as the food was quite delish. It was a great way to overcome jetlag, read with wild abandon, continue to participate in Chinese lessons, have a steady yoga and workout regime, set up job interviews, have movie dates with friends, binge watch TV shows, sunbathe on the balcony, and celebrate another revolution around the sun with some birthday frivolity. It felt like the perfect reset between two lives.
Renewing Visas
In 2021, we spent more time in a visa office than ever before, in three different immigration offices. While obtaining visas in Thailand may seem easy, it is actually rather time consuming, tedious, and pricey.
Superstar Moment
One knows it is not normal times when the security guards at the airport screening points have time to help repack your bag after being scanned. One lad nearly had mine all together before I even got through the X-ray machine at DMK. We had a good laugh and joked that such VIP service is a perk of these days.
Touristy thing: Petrified tree
We saw quite a few high touristy items this year, but I think the most unique was the petrified trees in Tak. I personally think it was an ancient slide that some lumberjack created for his children so they would leave him alone in order for him to drink his morning coffee in peace.
Unforgettable Moment
I still bear the scars of this encounter on my right arm. A late afternoon swim in the ocean ended rather abruptly due to a tango with a jellyfish. Actually, it did not end the swim immediately because I was a fair distance from the shore. Which, in the hours after, was discovered to be a very good thing in that saltwater is one of the top healing things for stings. So my minutes having to continue to swim aided in calming the sting, but definitely did not help all of it. It was nasty...and nasty for weeks.
Visitor/VisitingWe will always say that we travel for people. This year was filled with new meetings and new friendships. From our fellow beach bums of Samui to our Honeyforest Guesthouse comrades and a host of delightful encounters in between (including fellow virus refugees and the best Thai tea stand owners) - it has been a very fascinating and lively year of people. We are better people because of each of them.
Weirdest Place
I do love a good dose of macabre and the petrified monk on Koh Samui was it for the year!
Xcellent View
We were spoiled this year with stunning views mere steps from our abode. This category is a tie between our Samui sunsets...
...and our beloved Chiang Rai rice field.
Yearning for China
I never thought I would feel the loss of China so keenly and so deeply. While the abruptness of our end definitely plays a significant role, it is the severing of a daily connection with a society I smooshed into over the years that has been the harshest. We miss our adopted motherland so much. We miss the obvious - friends, food, ease of movement - but we greatly miss the small moments - the charms to keep the evil ones at bay, the greetings of local shopkeepers, the stroll through alleyways or across campus, the stinky drain smell at 5pm to mark the hour. While we finish the year just as far from a return as we were in early 2020, I cannot deny there continues to be a glimmer of hope that refuses to fade.
Zealous Sporting Event: Chiang Rai United
There are a couple of reasons why we chose our current home; a major one being that it was perched 1km from the local football team's stadium. There really is a delight in a saunter down the road for 90-minutes of really bad football, but extremely lively yelling and taunting in multiple languages. We frequently join the army of orange for "We are Chiang Rai, we cheer Chiang Rai!"